By Troy Ivan
ibc@ichibancrafter.com
Everyone wants to make the most of their cannabis and get the full value out of the beautiful and valuable material. Until now, to activate THCA into THC by decarbing with heat, desirable terpenes were sacrificed and considered collateral damage. For years, my focus has been creating processes for people at home to make the cleanest, high-impact, best medicine possible, and this subsequent development of the Closed Wash Decarb (CWD) is exciting. If you are not familiar with all facets of decarboxylation, I would suggest reading my decarb post Decarboxylation (decarb) 101: Basic Understanding and At Home Method Comparison before going further because from here, I will be treating the basic decarb process and considerations involved as already understood.
WARNING: This is fun and exciting stuff, but before we go further, I have to stress that this is for informational purposes to share what I have been working on for a couple years, and YOU MUST NOT TRY THIS YOURSELF. The safety issues involved with heated ethanol in a sealed jar have not yet been adequately identified. If you do not abide by this warning, you assume all risk and responsibility for the possible danger.
By applying heat to cannabis to accelerate the natural decarb process, desirable phytochemicals are lost. The heat in the decarb process evaporates off almost all of the desired terpene profile. Even when we try to trap the terpenes in containers and collect them again, it may or may not work well, and considerable oxidation and conversion will happen.
I decided I would no longer stand by and accept the loss of desirable components, the roasted flavor of decarbed cannabis, or the mess of decarbing oil as unavoidable. I set out to find a process to execute the necessary decarb without taking the volatile loss. I started thinking about traditional tincture making (Cannabis Tincture and Tincture Concentrate: A Great Way to Medicate!) and natural decarb in ethanol, and that’s where this journey began. The answer presented itself by reconsidering my experiences with processes we already use and making small changes. I haven’t come up with anything new here, just a different way of looking at what we’ve been doing for a long time.
The idea of CWD is to take a tincture (aka “wash”) made for primary ethanol extraction, then allow the tincture itself to decarb while sealed and having as little oxygen exposure as possible. It made sense that the terpenes had nowhere to go and little to interact with to cause appreciable oxidation and conversion. If true, this would give us the closest thing possible to clean, fully decarbed medicine with as many other phytochemical components intact as possible. Once you have the wash, reduce it to oil without ruining it by adding too much heat with a rotovap or ExtractCraft Source Turbo and EtOH PRO. This should sound surprisingly familiar; it combines traditional tincture-making with low-temperature ethanol extraction. It’s worth noting that the same process can be used by dissolving rosin, BHO, or other THCA concentrates in ethanol and processing. I performed CWD experiments at room temp, 100°F, and 150°F, and the following is what I found.
ROOM TEMP CWD (THC)
I started with the room temp exercise, hoping that the old-school “decarb in alcohol only takes a few months” was true. I found that, like any other temp/time decarb graph, the majority of decarb in percentage terms happens early, and then the tail slows considerably as it gets closer to full decarb. The process took longer than anticipated, so I pulled the plug at 8 months and 90% decarb. This is probably too long for someone using it for home extraction. The processed samples were deep golden amber and packed with fresh terpenes like the original control extraction. Unfortunately, for this exercise, I could only have the cannabinoid content tested and had to rely on my nose for the terpenes.
In addition to the information above, I held a last sample for 18 months. The wash had darkened considerably, and when I opened the jar, there was a sour lipid smell, so my expectations for the oil were very low. After processing it, the resulting oil was a clear dark brown, and the sour lipid smell was replaced with a lovely floral cannabis terpene profile. I was actually pretty surprised and even more surprised when I loaded into a CCell vape cart as is, and it was super smooth, potent, and nicely terpy. It was really dark but really good. Drawing parallels traditional hash maturation of color, smoothness, and flavor. It was much different than the commercial over-the-top fortified terp carts; instead, it was more smooth, refined and rounded. There’s a lot of further work on maturing these concentrate components like traditional hash or wine that may be very fun.
100°F CWD (THC)
Natural decarb at room temp moved far too slowly to be practical, so I decided to increase the temp to 100°F to measure the acceleration of decarb. A jar of wash was put into a vac oven, with no vacuum applied, at 100°F. There were some difficulties with the execution of this test, and it got cut short at 3 months. However, it still provided some insightful findings that can be extrapolated out using what we already know about decarb curves. After 3 months at 100°F, 80% decarb was achieved, and with terpene testing, we were also able to verify that terpenes like b-caryophyllene, limonene, humulene, linalool, and such were still fully represented. Where 80% decarb took about 6 months at room temp, it took only half that time at 100°F.
150°F CWD (CBD)
After halving the decarb duration from room temp to 100°F, I decided to throw an extra 50% heat at it, hoping it would really increase the pace of decarb and still protect the terpenes. I used a vacuum oven, again without vacuum applied, to ensure even temp for as long as it took. I drew from my experience with old-school infusion decarb methods and figured that, at this temp, CBD should be finished decarbing in 6 days. Honestly, with the heated, sealed jars of ethanol in the vac oven in the garage, without knowing how safe this would be, I didn’t sleep much for 6-days…….
Heated ethanol in a closed container can create a dangerous pressurized situation, hence the danger warning. To minimize the expansion effect and higher pressure caused by heating, I pre-heated the jars, lids, wash, and oven to at least 150°F before sealing the jars. I loaded the preheated jar of prepared wash and placed it into the preheated oven. I removed a sample of the wash daily for 6 days, then submitted them for cannabinoid and terpene testing in tincture form.
This is where things began to get really exciting. As expected, the majority of CBD cannabinoid conversion happened quickly with a considerably slowing tail. Then, the money shot; the terpenes held steady all the way through!
I saw the THC conversion rate results here also as great encouragement. The THC in this sample was already in a decent state of decarb, but considering that we already know the bulk of decarb happening early, this was still great info to base our next experiment on.
150°F CWD (THC)
After excellent results with the 150°F CBD CWD exercise, it was time to go after THC with the same temp but a more comprehensive approach. This time, I prepared one large wash and split it into four separate jars of 300ml each. The same preheating procedure was followed with three jars placed into the vac oven, with no vacuum applied, and one jar set aside to be used as a control sample.
The control sample was processed, and then one sample was removed from the vac oven, cooled, and processed every 24 hours for three days. The processed concentrates were submitted along with samples of the flower used (strain: Creamsicle) and the same flower decarbed with the Ardent.
After the great CBD exercise results, I knew the direction this was headed, and the results didn’t disappoint. They were amazing!
- Starting flower had minimal decarb.
- Flower decarbed with the Ardent was decimated.
- Control concentrate was 85.55% cannabinoids and busting with terps.
- In three days we achieved 98% conversion, which is absolutely adequate.
- The terpenes were incredibly intact in the final concentrate.
The concentrates made with this process are far superior to any decarbed concentrate I’ve ever seen. The finished product is terpy, beautiful, and just like a concentrate that hasn’t been decarbed. I still have a lot of work to do with all of this, but I believe this process has a couple of undeniable advantages. First, with all the components intact, this is the most powerful way to make RSO, FECO, and any kind of edible. Second, this is a great help in making vape carts so the THCA won’t crash and ruin it with crystalizing like with regular extractions. By partially decarbing a concentrate with CWD at 150°F for 1 day, or maybe just 12 hours, this crashing may be avoided without sacrificing the desirable components of traditional decarb.
Stay lifted my friends !!!
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Thanks for being brave .. Im sure I wouldn’t have slept at all knowing that a potential bomb was brewing.. You are on to something here .. Ive been seeing your updates here and there great work as always .. now to make a device that can do 4L at once . Maybe a electric
pressure cooker
Have you seen a product called NP-710 by Dirty Arm Farm in Oregon? If so, is this concentrate at all similar?
It looks like they are just using a partially decarbed product of some kind. I’ve been writing about this for a couple years now so there are some people out there using this process now but not sure how many. Not sure how or what they are decarbing. The method in this post would be a way to achieve that same thing, but in the best way possible. More and more people will start using variations of what I’ve done here. I think it will change the way many people approach it
Thanks for the reply!!! Have you run experiments with WPFF concentrates? Could this process make rosin/bho more potent when vaporized?
Fresh frozen doesn’t work with ethanol extraction, too much moisture and water based components. Freeze drying fresh material and using ethanol extraction provides top shelf results. Rosin potency can be increased by simple winterization and removing the wax and lipid content. The closed wash decarb wouldn’t make rosin or bho “more potent” but it would ensure a higher conversion rate when vaped with weak batteries or low temp dabs.
I’m trying out this method of decarb today. I’m using a SETI Scientific TLG glass pressure vessel @200°F.
For how long?
I ran it for 4 hours at 200F. The concentrate darkened noticably, and the oil is a clear, dark brown amber. I don’t have access to a test lab, so I dont know if it increased the potency or not. I mentioned the pressure vessel to suggest a way to increase the safety margin for this process.
Could you tell me if the Ardent you used was the fx with the CBD setting? I was thinking of getting one specifically for CBD decarb.
Don’t do it, they are a waste of money when the process is so easy. Not worth spending that amount money on something so simple. For CBD just double the THC processing time, it’s all they do as well
Could you tell me if the Ardent that was used was the new fx? I was thinking about getting one specifically to decarb CBD.
It was the FX. Please read my decarb post
Decarbing in ridiculously easy, spending money on an expensive machine is a waste of money.
Sometimes it isn’t about money, but simplicity and trying your best to contain smells, which the Ardent does better than traditional decarb methods.
Total, utter and complete NONSENSE. It’s only about process ignorance of the unknowing masses. $400 for a “decarb” machine is pure idiocy. A jar with an instant pot, sous vide, oven or any heat delivery works perfectly. Amateurs overthink, over complicate, and over pay because they simply don’t think or try to understand the process. Consumers get excited about buying cannabis toys and simply stop thinking then they get really defensive and mad when it’s pointed out to them. I just purchased a beautiful Breville 3 in 1 convection oven/microwave that holds temps almost perfectly from 100F-400F for $400. That’s worth the money. Nearly $400 for a heated tube is simply stupid. I’m guessing you won’t be happy with this response but unfortunately it’s all true and what people have to understand. If you are happy spending silly money for silly toys that’s your choice.
I just want to say that your blog is fantastic. I suspect that you must have some sort of chemistry or engineering background. I say this because your information is so spot-on accurate and technically detailed. There is so much flat-out wrong information out there. It is nice to read something that makes scientific sense. Thank you.
You are correct… when you read something posted here, you can read it with confidence.
Thank you so much for taking the time to not only run this test, but document it thoroughly. We’re the concentrates ready for vaporization after being processed through the source or did they require further post processing? Is the terpene level analyzed pre source run or post source run?
I think the details of what was tested is included in the post. The 150F THC was the final concentrate
Hi Ichibancrafter, firstly, your blog is amazing! I’m so happy I’ve stumbled across it! Your years of work is priceless and your passion evident. I enjoy your methods and the descriptive writing style provides great insights.
I’m gearing up to run my first extraction hoping to create a cannabis oil primarily for vaping but secondly edibles and I’m hoping that I might be able to pick your brain a little. I will actually be running several smaller extractions to find my sweet spot for yield vs undesirables. I have a blast chiller capable of -40C and need to establish my own ethanol contact times. I’ll then be using an old rotovap for the ethanol recovery step. Using the rotovap I’m hoping to preserve as many of the fragile terpenes as possible but in the interest of converting all the THCA to THC your CWD method has my interest peaked!
As I understand it, the decarboxylation step is not essential when creating an oil for vaping as the oil is decarboxylated and the THCA converted in the coil of the vaping pen when used. However, as I’m seeking to create a multi purpose oil for edibles as well I think I’d like to decarb the wash and preserve the terps. My first question is, do you think this would this negatively impact the oil when used for vaping?
The second question is, you use a vac oven for your CWD which, unfortunately I don’t have access to so what are your thoughts on using a sous vide? By creating a water bath do you think it would be possible to safely decarb the wash provided the wash was contained in a suitable vessel?
Many thanks in advance.
Thank you very much for the kind words. I would say pretty much all you have asked is in my decarb and CWD post. As mentioned in the CWD post, at this time I recommend against others working with CWD at home until we fully understand the risks.
I wonder if a water bath using a sous vide device would work. You would just need to keep the water up.
Some are doing exactly that now
Talking about using fresh flower and freeze drying it, any info on settings for freeze dryer, I gave a harvest right and looking at doing that but I’m not sure about adjusting the setting to what temp, etc.
I would contact Harvest Right, they are quite friendly and knowledgeable.
I typically boil off the remaining alcohol on a hot plate after pouring out of the etoh. Did you air purge on a mat for all of these?
Nothing in this post was post processed with anything more than air and patience. I don’t add extra heat anytime I can avoid it when making something I plan to vape. If I were using the oil for edibles or topicals I wouldn’t be worried about a small residual ethanol and wouldn’t add heat then either really. Only if I were decarbing oil after the extraction.
I am wanting to try some vape carts but I’ve never air dried. How do you load carts after air drying. I’m assuming you have to warm it some to get into a syringe.
Yes, you will need some heat to lessen viscosity. There should be a lot of videos out there
Last question my crafting brother. Did you add anything to the oil before filling the carts?
No. That is unscrubbed, unadulterated straight oil in a CCell
Very interesting post… some ideas below
No wonder you did not sleep well while heating ethanol in your garage during days !!!
Why using a vacuum oven without vacuum ???
Anyways, what is needed is to remove oxygen from your jars during experimentation.
You need to find a container holding pressure, put the samples in, vacuum to remove all air, purge with nitrogen or argon and then heat ! No more than 150 F
No oxygen means no oxidation of your cannabinoids/terpenes and a very reduced fire hazard.
The terpenes are not recovered with same % which mean chemical reactions occurred (mostly because of oxygen presence???) or your containers where not holding positive pressure. Heating during days even at low temp will evaporate most of the most volatile terpenes so it is very important the containers hold the pressure. The containers back at room temp should still be pressurized when your experiment is done (because CO2 produced by decarboxylation). Containers with a check valve would be best.
Obviously your results are great !
Your website is great !
The information and ideas are great !
FYI I purchased a Source Turbo, as it is much easier (and I am too lazy) to distillate
Keep having fun my friend !
Thank you very much for the kind words. I just used the vac oven as it was convenient and reliably holds temp. I didn’t apply vac because I didn’t need it. I hear you about the nitrogen charge and agree, but most of what I do I try to keep as close to basics and what normal people would have around to work with. You can see in the data the cannabinoid oxidation-conversion was quite low and while I don’t have a way to measure terp oxidation-conversion the numbers were pretty consistent. I believe my containers held pressure involved for a few reasons. First, I heated everything first to minimize thermal pressure build. Second, I don’t believe the Co2 pressure amounted to enough to cause a problem. Third, there was no smell of ethanol in the sealed vac oven (one reason I used it). Last, after cooling it had a substantial vac seal. My process was horribly rudimentary partly on purpose, partly because I didn’t have some things I’d like to have, so there’s a ton more work that should be done but for now I’ve achieved what I wanted out of it. Hopefully, you enjoy the Source! It’s pretty crazy how easy and safe it make the process for regular people at home. Thanks again for the comments and support!
Thank you so much for this! It almost feels like Christmas eve, if this achieves what I assume it does. I’ve been scouring the internet in search of a way to make a strain-specific tincture without adding terps. It seems like this process would be the way.
In your experience, does this method preserve strain-specific effects in a meaningful way? I know you mentioned using creamsicle in this article. Did the result retain the citrus flavor? Have you tried other strains?
Also, I know you don’t recommend anyone try this at home, but hypothetically if one were to decarb using sous vide method to substitute for a lack of proper oven, could the decarb be done intermittently say: 12 hrs per day for 6 days (b/c of the need to be awake to maintain water)? Or, could one possibly use a hot plate?
Thanks again for your article, very excited about this.
I think you can see from the lab reports the terpenes are all present so everything that strain was compromised of was also in the decarbed concentrate. This, what you are asking, is the entire point of why I chased this process down. If you join the Facebook user group “Extractcraft Users Group” you can use the search bar and enter something like “CWD sous vide” and you’ll see some people doing it that you can ask. As for flavor, don’t count on or confuse oral flavor with aroma sensory if that is what you were asking there. The full profile was represented
Hey. Amazing blog you got here, I’ve decided to try dry ice method using your instructions, but I am a bit worried about glass and dry ice combo. It’s very hard to find real Mason Jars here, but I did find an Italian approximation called “Bormioli “Quattro Stagioni” 320 (included the name, so you could check it out on google)”.
Am I correct to assume that If I chill the glass jar slowly or just use a room temperature jar and put into a dry ice freezer – it shouldn’t shatter? Or should I just try to find metallic jars to be on the safe side? It’s not like Mason Jars are extra durable or very different from any jars?
I’ve never taken special caution with Ball canning jars and have never had a problem. Alternatively, I also often use ziplock bags instead of glass to control space/volume and add surface area for cooling
Hello, can this method be used for pure BHO not dissolved in ethanol? I have a vacuum chamber with an accurate temperature!
Thanks in advance for your answer!
HELL NO
Thanks for all of the in-depth and well written info.
I just read through a lot of the site and comments, so may have passed over this.
From what I have gathered so far, you did the CWD at 150 for 3 days, but the plain flower decarb was 240 for 1 hour.
If you were at a lower elevation where water boiled at 212, would you have tried the CWD at 200 for 2 days?
Were there any noticeable differences in the quality of final product doing CWD vs Flower in jar decarb then qwet?
Ambient pressure and vapor points don’t have anything to do with decarb. CWD provides a much better product. I’m also working on oil jar tek now that may be even better
So far Im extracting with hotplate/Mag stirrer. Im aspiring to get the Etoh. This is an awesome idea and so simple. Quick question, what if I put sealed jar in crock pot full of water, in the garage? 150F would be easier to do for me , this way.
Like I mentioned in the article, I am not suggesting or providing support for people doing this at home. It was just informational and educational
Great article!
Your method is really interesting. It had me thinking; wouldn’t a sous video pot be the best thing to have for this? I love the idea of vacuum-sealing some fresh terp sauce (bypassing messing with ethanol extraction), trapping those terpenes, then dropping it in a 150f bath for 3 days and pulling out the nectar of the gods.
But, will I get the same THC as decarbing @250f for 30 min?
I like the potential of the sous vide being an easy “set and forget” decarb beast. Tell us how!!
Yes. That would work perfectly. There is a piece coming out soon about using jar tek to make carts shortly. Basically like what they have been using with rosin lately.
I know there’s is no “one size fits all” answer to this question but, roughly, how much flower does it take to make a single cart? Or, if you make several at once (likely), how much flower do you expect to fill your set number of carts? I want to do a little experimenting, with this, but don’t want to make so little it’s not worth it and don’t want to use so much that I lose much if a disaster occurs. Advice?
I use 0.5g carts so it depends on your yield expectations. I would suggest reading the EHO and Jar Tech decarb post for making carts and the Extraction and yield posts.
After reading through this a few times, I have a couple of questions. The EtOH Pro manual says it purges at a range of 80-120ºF. Since I do not have access to any sort of oven where I could run it for 3-6 days, how long would you recommend I leave a CWD in one? Going from 3 days for a THC wash to 6 months+ simply by lowering the temperature from 150ºF to 100ºF so it’s rather difficult to estimate how much time I’d need. In case I was able to come up with the funds, do you have a (relatively) affordable vac oven you’d recommend that I use? Also, with your wash (<-50ºF for an hour with agitation every 15 minutes), did you need to do any AC/DE scrubbing/filtering or was it a fast/slow-flow and go right into the EtOH?
As someone with a STEM background and a love of the scientific process, I must say I truly appreciate the work AND the explanation (with data) you provide. You’re one of the few people I trust for advice, in this business, because of it so definitely keep up the good work!
People have been using souse vide water baths which are much more affordable. I would also keep an eye out for some other jar tech decarb info that may be coming out in a couple weeks. Checkout the EHO Carts with Jar Tech Decarb post for a preview
Trying this for the first time today. I followed your instructions, damn near to the letter. My wash looks golden and smells great. I am using a water bath and operated it all last night using an external thermometer to gauge its abilities and the temp range stayed from 149-152° overnight so here I go! Sunday will be the day to purge, load carts, and test…excited! Good carts are the last holdout, for me, and I’m pretty stoked to have my own homemade ones
Gotta say, slightly bummed at the “darkness” but clarity is superb and holy crap it smells awesome! Going to final purge overnight and load a cart tomorrow to test
The color is going to depend mostly on the material and how much you decarb. The material I used in this post was pretty average and the color is as you see it here. The new jar tech decarb is working even better……
Forgot to report back…absolute success and the EHO packs a punch!
I can’t afford those fancy machines.
But, after I extract the Ethanol in my Simple Distiller.
Could I just load it into a Boiling Flask & put it in a Stir Mantle and cap it to Decarb?
Also, to help eliminate lose of Terps through Oxidation should that Boiling Flask either have the Oxygen removed by Vacuum or Decarb it in a Nitrogen Enriched Environment?
Nice question. If you have a string heating mantle, boiling flask, vacuum pump, and a vacuum oven you can Nitro back it sounds like you have some expensive toys already?
Some of what you ask is yes, and some no. If you are only making the extraction for oral consumption then the simple distiller will work. Depending on the volume you are doing and how long it is processing it may be mostly decarbed by the time you’re finished recovering the ethanol anyway. By this point the time for worrying about saving terps is pretty much past, after hitting with heat and oxygen exposure in the distiller all the mono terpenes and most of everything except cannabinoids will be boiled off or oxidized for the most part.
Vacuum during decarb doesn’t help as decarb is thermal dependent and not variable with pressure. Adding vacuum would just add to terpene loss. If at some point you move to an ethanol recovery process that does retain terpenes then you can consider something like Jar Tech Decarb to maintain as many terps as possible https://extractcrafter.com/2021/05/02/jar-tech-decarb-to-keep-the-terpenes-real-feco-carts-and-terpy-deliciousness/
I use the Source Turbo, but know a lot of people that use air distillers to reclaim their ethanol. In the above reply you mention that when using one “By this point the time for worrying about saving terps is pretty much past, after hitting with heat and oxygen exposure in the distiller all the mono terpenes and most of everything except cannabinoids will be boiled off or oxidized for the most part.” The people I know set the distiller to either 78-79°C, or 173.1°F depending upon what model they have, which makes sense to me. In looking up terpene vapor points, most of them have vapor points higher than these temperatures. Ocimene (vapor point 50°C/122°F) is the only one that I have seen that will be ruined by the temperatures I listed above, provided temperature causes the main destruction terpenes. I know you mentioned oxidation, but does that really play that much into the destruction of terpenes? In my mind, if it doesn’t get to it’s vapor point, it’s going to stay in the remaining oil. What am I missing here, that I can relay to my friends that use this method? If I can help them get better end product, I’m more than happy to pass it on. Thanks.
Sure. First, oxidation and destruction of terpenes works on an increasingly scaled reaction with each increment of heat and time. Some will vaporize some will convert/degrade, it’s not a guess, all you really need to do is test the flower then the resulting extract and you’ll see for yourself. Think of vapor points like this. What is the vapor point of water? 212 F at sea level, right? Does that mean if you leave a pot of water out in a dry, low humidity day in the summer it won’t evaporate?
Now, about “setting the temp” on a distiller. I’m going to see if you can catch this yourself with a little hint. Again, using water as the surrogate with a boiling point of 212 F at sea level. Regardless of the amount of heat/energy you put into a pot what’s the hottest that water can get?
Just realized I didn’t mention how much I liked the article. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I’m a bit confused, I’ve been under the impression that you have to do a partial decarb of your oil because the coils on the vape pens do not get hot enough to convert the thc-a.
No. If that were true you wouldn’t be able to get high off a cart. Having said that, there are two reasons why you might want to do a partial decarb. If you are carting straight, very clean oil it can/will crash in the cart. Also, while the cart can convert a good amount of THCA to THC, the partial decarb will increase the amount of conversion. Especially helpful with weak batteries.
Yeah thanks this is exciting, good job!
You do not have any data for those of us who want a 50:50% of CBDA:CBD at 150ºF, but you do have some good data on how long it will take if we want 50:50% THCA:THC at 150ºF. After the first day you have 26:51% THCA:THC. It seems I can assume the CBDA will convert to CBD at about the same time interval, is this correct? If so, if you want a 50:50% ratio it appears that ~3/4 a day of the 150ºF method may be good. In practice though, I think just leaving it for a day and getting the 25%:50% THCA and CBDA to THC and CBD will be ok for most.
Again, thanks for this method 🙂
CBD basically take twice as long to decarb as THC. Said differently, THC takes 1/2 as long as CBD to decarb. I might suggest looking at the Jar Tech decarb post, it’s easier
Also. If you really want 50/50 for sure. Do a batch that’s fully decarbed and one that’s not decarbed at all. Then mix together.
Really cool site i have added 8 or 9 bookmarks already, lot’s of useful and informative info. I used different method. I added 1g of bubble hash rosin to glass 10ml vial with cap (hopefully completely sealed), and boiled water in small pot. I used metal wire to wrap around vial’s neck and made 3 hooks for pot edges to hold the vial in the middle in boiling water at the level of concentrate (higher or lower might change something . I saw bubbles for like 25 minutes and stop the process to try. It was good but sedating ,i think because its hash rosin. Taste in cart is awful (i used a hair straightener it made taste worse imo). You can always regulate water temp to try from 65c/150f and up.
For the carts…… 1) Rosin, especially flower rosin, will be quite bad in carts. Way too many undesirables 2) For the decarb, checkout my jar tech decarb post instead of the CWD? It will work better. 3) Check out the winterizing post? 4) Checkout the hash, rosin, EtOH ecosystem post about rosin and undesirables? You may have seen them already but I listed them just incase you hadn’t. Hope it helps.