Waste Nothing from the Source: Shatter From The Cup Remnants!

Getting shatter from the remnants leftover in the cup after a cannabis extraction with the Source takes little effort, but pays off big because you already have the concentrate made!   I’ve tried many ways to maximize the remnant concentrate recovery and now I have my favorite technique.  It’s where the new cutting edge, Source by ExtractCraft, meets old school pyrex dish scraping.  I’ll show you my favorite way to recover and make good use of what’s left over in the cup.  My favored ‘new meets old’ technique is a little more work, but I really like the outcome, and it’s fun to scrape and commune with the old ways once in a while.




To remove whats left over in the cup after an extraction and make it into something useable, add just enough alcohol to the cup to dissolve any remaining concentrate.  Using too much alcohol won’t hurt anything, but using the least amount possible will minimize the evaporation time required to get to the final product.  What you’ll have is a small amount of highly concentrated golden alcohol solution.  Once you have the reclaimed golden concentrate solution you can use the “Easiest” or “New Meets Old” method to get the final product.




The easiest method is to put concentrate solution in a platinum grade silicone cup (larger ones with more surface area on the bottom are best), put the silicone cup into the Source, and purge until ready.  This works fine, but because there is no alcohol in the Source to evaporate the temps will rise higher than when in normal operation, resulting in a darker end product.  screen-shot-2016-09-18-at-12-10-50-pm




The ‘New Meets Old’ method begins with taking the concentrate solution and pouring it onto a pyrex dish.  There will only be a small amount of solution in a big pyrex pie dish but all that extra surface space will allow the small amount of solution to spread out and evaporate quickly.  Swirl the solution around so it thinly covers the surface, then just leave it to dry.  Covering the dish with cheese cloth is recommended to keep dust and contaminants out of the final product.  I let it set over night and in the morning it’s totally transparent, crystalized, and ready to be scraped.  Use a razor blade to scrape all the good crystal dust into a pile.  The mess of scraping the dust can be eliminated by mildly heating the pyrex dish before scraping.  Heating the dish just a little will help to easily scrape a more wax like substance, maybe with less mess.  However, I have fun scraping the dust and also enjoy using it to sprinkle on a bowl or in a joint very easily.

Transfer what you scrapped onto an oil slick sheet, fold the dust and slick sheet in half, and press gently with a mildly heated implement.  Don’t heat too much, just enough for the dust to melt together nicely.

Lastly, apply a cold icepack to one or both sides of the folded slick sheet for the resulting shatter to be easily removable.



Hit me up with questions, share with friends, and stay lifted!!!!

Email ichibancrafter@gmail.com with any questions or comments.

You can also checkout the Source by ExtractCraft at www.extractcraft.com







12 thoughts on “Waste Nothing from the Source: Shatter From The Cup Remnants!

  1. from the temperature rising from the final bit being in silicone, is that darker end product a form of decarbing? i watched a video somewhere that said to put it in the oven at 200 for like 4 mins to decarb it. im not sure what decarbbing means to this application, ive only decarbed buds for cannabutter. what does it do to concentrates?

    1. Decarbing is necessary for cannabis to break the blood brain barrier by making the THC molecule smaller. When flower or concentrates are smoked the heat we apply for combustion or vaporization decarbs the material for us so we don’t have to plan on doing it. If you are going to orally ingest (or ingest some other way) you need to turn the THC-A into THC before ingesting. For a good explanation checkout the Skunkpharm.com thread about decarboxylation. The 200 for 4 minutes is not accurate at all and forget you read that.

      When you mention ‘darker color’ it could be from many many different things. First, to answer your direct question, could it be from decarbing. Yes. If it is left with high temps for extended periods it will decarb and will also turn darker. If it does decarb it will not turn into shatter no matter what you do to it. Now other factors, like the dark color of the concentrates in a lot of my blog posts, come from working with really low quality trim. Working with flower, doing the exact same process has a substantially lighter color. How the materials were grown, cured, stored, and processed can also have a detrimental effect on color. Lastly, QWET will have a slightly darker color that other processes due to what I think is the alcohol interacts with oxidation (but to be honest, I don’t know the science…..). Something funny I have noticed is that after doing a beautiful extraction and have beautiful blond oil, once it goes in the normal vac chamber to purge, even with no heat applied, the concentrate darkens quite a bit. I don’t know why, but I am trying to figure it out…..

  2. When you first started posting about using the Source you would stop the process and move the contents of the crucible into a non-stick silicone cupcake mold. Do you not do that step anymore?

    Can parchment paper be substituted for the oil slick paper? I hadn’t seen you using that, and haven’t purchased any yet.

    1. With the new crucible you don’t have to wrestle with the management of juggling oil volume against surface area. The new crucible has the rounded bottom so as the volume reduces so does the surface area of the cup that is covered, and this eliminates the need to transfer into a silicone cup to finish.

      Parchment unbleached paper is probably the best choice. Hydrocarbons and terpenes have been reported to have negative interaction with ptfe/silicone, but I still use all of them myself……

    1. Depends on what you are looking to make, and what you desired final form is. There’s no real answer, its personal choice of the crafter.

  3. I was hoping there would be some idea. I’d be looking for wax, but was hoping I wouldn’t have to keep stopping and letting it cool until I got the right consistency.

    1. Each strain will be different. Each set of material will be different. Each run will vary due to environment and process variables. It is as much of an art as it is a science unfortunately. The good news is that you will developed a good dependable sense for it quite quickly.

  4. So I finished a run with 2 ounces of decarbed white widow washed into a mason jar of 99% ethanol at room temperature, using turbo mode, and extending the 2 hour window repeatedly over 7 hours until the bubbles went away. I used the ice tray. The wash was the color of strong ice tea going into the crucible.

    When cleaning the dark RSO out of the crucible, I noticed these dark, dirty looking small crystals that would slowly disintegrate between my fingers. I thought it was plant matter and tossed it. Did I make a mistake? Was that shatter or wax? I thought I was only going to end up with something equivalent to the Rick Simpson Oil (RSO) that I had made previously with an open loop process. The remainder of the oil was the typical, thick, and incredibly sticky and dark oil

    Thanks for your detailed information.

    1. If it took 7 hours you are probably operating the machine incorrectly and should contact the company for help identifying your error. The stuff you found is probably a combination of coagulated chlorophyl and celulose from poor filtration. Lastly, if you have somehting that is 99% it is probably isopropyl and not ethanol which has significant meaning in the difference.

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