Best DIY Cannabis Concentrate Smokables With The Source: Quick and Easy Instructions

Making your first cannabis concentrates for smoking can be daunting and people think it’s out of their reach to achieve something great to smoke.  I promise that anyone can make a great concentrate with this easy guide, using the Source Turbo by ExtractCraft.  The steps are easy so don’t take unnecessary shortcuts that’ll adversely effect your end product.  Are you ready to throw down?  Lets do this…….


The material you use and how it’s prepared is one of the biggest factors in how well your extraction turn out.  The vast majority of the THC, CBD, terpenes and all the stuff we’re after is on the outside surface of the plant so there’s no reason to break up the cannabis too much and defiantly don’t grind.  If the alcohol can easily flow over and around all the material that’s what’s important.

FREEZE!  For a great smokeable and vapable concentrate it’s very important to freeze the cannabis for at least 5hr and the 190-proof (95%) ethanol for 24hr.  It’s a good idea to freeze the cannabis in a ziplock bag or mason jar, so later when it’s time to combine the  cannabis and ethanol it’ll be cold and convenient.  For a closer look at why freezing is so important it’s detailed well here, Super Cooled QWET Wash for Cannabis Extraction Using Dry Ice.


Add the freezer cooled ethanol to the cannabis until it’s fully covered and the ethanol can easily flow through and around the plant material.  Allow the Ethanol to work its magic by absorbing the THC, CBD and terpenes for between 3-20 minutes.  This is called the “wash”.  The 3-20 minute range is wide but will have a large impact on the quality and yield of your final product.  If the wash is too short the yield will be limited, but if it’s too long your extract will fill with green and unwanted plant matter.  Figuring out how long the wash should be depends mostly on the material you are dealing with and what shape it is in.  If you’re using trim that is chopped up and has extensive cell wall destruction then plant matter will leak easily and a shorter wash must be used.  For flower gently broken up by hand a 20 minute wash will provide the best yield.

During the wash it’s important to agitate the ethanol to move saturated ethanol away from the cannabis and fresher ethanol in to continue its job of collecting.  Agitation is good because it can help break down the trichomes on flower for collection, but with chopped up trim it will exacerbate leaking green plant matter.  So this is another consideration that must find balance, better starting material can handle more agitation than poor starting material.

When the color and density of the wash is perfect it’s time to quickly separate the ethanol from he plant matter and stop the wash process.

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Green on the Left is bad.   Yellow/Golden on the right is good


First the plant material and ethanol must be separated quickly to stop the ethanol’s penetration of the plant material.  If this step is prolonged as the solution and plant strain and filtermaterial warm it will lead to plant matter leaking.  Using a strainer or wire mesh coffee filters that allow a rough strain and fast flow is perfect for this step.  With the plant matter removed we move to a more filtering to remove all the small particles from the ethanol.  It’s very important to understand that the better you filter the better your final product will be.  A few coffee filters can be used to filter but for best results a proper filter like the Buchner funnel and flask in the photo would be best.  Repeat the filtering until you have a crystal clear ethanol solution.  This golden, clear solution holds all the cannabis oil you’re after and now all we need to do is remove the ethanol and claim the oil.


There are many ways to remove the ethanol but the best way is to use the Source Turbo by ExtractCraft ( because it performs the process quickly, under vacuum, at very low temperatures, and most importantly safely in the home.  Simply put the nicely filtered wash into the cup, the cup goes into the machine, and just push the button to separate the ethanol into the glass collection area for reuse.

Allow the process to advance until the concentrate is the consistency of a viscous oil,  stop the unit and remove the cup.

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Removing the oil can be a sticky ordeal so you need to be ready with a small spatula and a silicone mat to pour it onto and move quickly while the oil is still warm.



With the oil there are many choices of what can be made.  You can leave it as is and make vape cartridges, spread it thinly on a silicone mate to cure into pull and snap, add a little heat for some wax, or put in a vac chamber to make shatter.  Do whatever you want  because you’re the crafter!





52 thoughts on “Best DIY Cannabis Concentrate Smokables With The Source: Quick and Easy Instructions

  1. I really like this article, I have been thinking about purchasing the source by extract craft but have seen some reviews that worry me. It looks great here in your article but i have yet to see a legit video and end product (im interested in making shatter like product) I have seen some videos on youtube but they do not show any detail on the end product. If you have anymore videos, please get back to me as i am really interested in the product. Thank you

    1. Hey Dallas,
      Thanks for checking my stuff out. All of the photos you see on my blogs are the end products of concentrates I have made with the Source. The best video I’ve seen is the review on School of Hard Nugs. I don’t have video mainly because of complexity and I don’t have the time or skill to do a good job editing and such. With the source I have made wax and shatter but I primarily stick to leaving at wax for a few reasons. The potency is the same either way. Shatter takes a bit longer to mess with. The longer you are introducing heat the more terps you lose. You have to keep in mind also that you will not get dispensary type hard shatter (unless you freeze it) but it only takes 2 hours to run 1 oz of cannabis. If you’ve ever blasted BHO and fully purged it you can appreciate how fast 2 hours is. If you have any more questions let me know and good luck making some good smoke!

      1. I do not see a video product review of the SchoolOfHardNugs website ??

      2. I’m not sure. I think it’s on the extractcraft YouTube channel though

    2. I recently purchased a Turbo and will receive it soon. My question is: I am interested in making more processed product, specifically honeycomb wax or crumble. Is this possible with the Turbo and if not what extra equipment would I need? I am a complete rookie at the whole oil and wax concept.

      1. Sure, its all possible, crumble more so than honeycomb probably. For crumble you are going to need a vac chamber and will have to work with it a bit. I would suggest getting the unit first, experiment with it a bit by just making oil, spreading it thin on a silicone mat for air purge for a day or two and see what you get. After doing that a few times maybe decide then if you are happy with what you are doing or if you want to add to the post processing. The FB user group “ExtractCraft User Group” has a lot of this kind of information in it and the search function in the group can be very helpful.

      2. Cool. Thanks for the quick reply. I have the Source and am waiting on the alcohol. I will do a few oil runs and see how it goes. I do believe I will want to eventually start doing vac purges but I’ll leave that for another day.

  2. Have you done any lab testing to check the THC level in the final product? I’d prefer a final product that is vapable, but from the instructions It seems like it comes out as a wax or shatter. Is it possible to leave it in a liquid state?

    1. I know lab testing was done once and came out to 85% total for starting material that was 21% quality flower. Testing isn’t really necessary as there isn’t really anywhere for the THC to escape to. Essentially you get out what you put in as starting material and how carefully you execute the extraction. Use good stuff, make a clean extraction and you will have some powerful stuff.

      As far as using a vape, you can use wax and shatter to vape no problem, and it’s pretty easy to handle. If you are talking about leaving it in a cartridge in liquid form that would require cutting/mixing the oil you make with a suitable carrier. I haven’t gotten to work on that process yet and I’m not sure I’ll bother with it. Wax vape pen tech has gotten really good and I’m a fan of that form.

      I hope this helps. If you have anything else you’d like to know I’d like to hear it. Good luck and have fun crafting

    1. depending on what I’m making and what material I’m using 7% to nearly 30%. For very clean extracts the yield will max our at 18%-20% with great material and proper execution. Average material and average execution for clean concentrates usually 15-16%. And for FECO you can always hit 20-30% but it is from long very green soaks.

      1. 7-30% is a big gap. Are you saying that perfect execution of this guide and top grade material will yield around 18-20%? I’m still trying to decide on purchasing this.

      2. 7-30 is a big gap indeed. There are so many variables in material, process, and desired end product its just not possible to nail down without some very specific information. In terms of your question ‘top grade material’ is hard to nail down as I had a question earlier today asking about yield from ‘top grade leaves’. Quite frankly, I have no idea what a ‘top grade leaf’ is. So, if you are talking about top grade flower, then yes I would say 16%-20% is reasonable for a well executed cold extraction to make clean oil for vape, and you follow most of what I have written in the super cooled QWET post and Freezer vs Dry Ice QWET posts. Then, you can do a second wash to increase total yield and use it to make edibles, topical and such. If you are making FECO with top grade flower then you will yield much higher and some of that increase will be comprised of plant components other than cannabinoids and terpenes. Now if by ‘top grade material’ you are referring to some kind of trim then you will have to compensate for that and bring down the yield considerations as there just wont be as much oil to harvest and trim will be anywhere from 7%-15% depending on what you are working with.

    1. Cloudy would probably indicate water contamination. Are you positive you used 95% ethanol?

    1. The Source doesn’t influence yield up or down, it simply processes what is put into in it at around 100F and protects all the most valued parts of an extraction you want to keep intact. The process used is alcohol extraction and that is where you will find the most information on possible yields if you would like to do some research. It’s not possible for me to give you a pin-point answer on yield per weight because it’s dependent on many different things. First, the largest determinant of yield is the quality of the material you are working with. If you are working with high quality material there will be much more oil for the alcohol to harvest. Conversely, if you are working with low quality material then it will be impossible to attain high yields. Secondly, it depends on how well the crafter performs the extraction. If you take shortcuts or don’t maximize your wash then yields will show it. Third, tolerance for undesirables will effect your yield. If you keep waxes, fats, paraffin (like rosin) then your yields will be higher. However, if you want those gone and winterize/de-wax then the yield will suffer but the quality will increase dramatically. Lastly, it depends on what you are making. If you are making something super clean like a herb extract for vaping then the yield will be lower than a really deep full plant medicinal extraction. The good thing about this process is you can actually perform both of these and double your expected output by making a clean vape extract then using the same plant material for a deeper medicinal extract. So, the closest direct answer to your question I can provide is the range for yields is from 7%-30%.

      1. You are a good human! I like how you explain things perfectly! Thank you!

  3. I picked one of these up at a store that was going out of business to use for cannabis. Wow! I love it! It’s easy and you can make it as thin or thick as you’d like. I have cut the extract and put them into the vape cartridges – it’s pretty easy. I’ve also added a touch of almond extract before running it through just to see what happened – it didn’t do much. I was hoping for an interesting flavor.

    But anyway, I wanted to leave a comment that this machine is what you say it is, and the app is really nice too, for us control freaks.

  4. Just recently got this beauty .I am still waiting on my buchnar filter and erlinmeyer flask. I have a question. Can I use the vacuum from the source to assist with the buchnar filter?

    1. Yes. Just make sure the neck of the funnel is lower than the port on the flask and you don’t suck a bunch of ethanol

      1. Awesome Tysm. Can’t wait to try. I’m gonna do a quick test run of some lessor grade product. Just to cut my teeth and get used to the machine .I’m just after a nice dabbable concentrate. I know ill achieve better and cleaner type of final product once I’m able to properly filter .Imma use unbleached coffee filters inside a screen strainer for my test run. I’ve done this into Pyrex and on my glass top oven to evap. I can get a decent end product but have been told this machine will make my end product way better. So if it makes what I already can achieve better. I can’t wait to see what I come up with.

  5. On my 3rd run (4th if you count the bumped one) and using quality decarbed flower. I think I might have stopped the Source to early. In my batch I can taste or smell a hint of,the everclear/ very small to barely. My question is what is my best option? Let it evaporate the alcohol out or put it back in the source? Right now Color is Amber brown with a consistency of honey. Or can I dab it or eat it? Thanks for the help thus far. The Source machine is very easy to use. I need to try turbo mode.

    1. Everyone has different tastes and preferences. For the best flavor purging the ethanol is necessary, but some take it too far and over purge at the expense of losing a lot of terpenes. You have to figure out the sweet spot for yourself by trial and error. The good news is that I have not seen anything that show and adverse health effects from the consumption of food grade ethanol outside of over consumption. Most people will let it evaporate in the open air, with a fan over it, on a mild heating sours like a coffee warmer, or in a vac chamber.

  6. for best results run the everclear through distillers carbon or a brita pitcher 1st (at least 10 times but more is better) to make the spirit more neutral and reduce off tastes.. ( can’t wait to try your methods , cheers)

    1. I don’t really understand this….. The ethanol doesn’t have much flavor to remove? Brita filters are prewetted with water, right? Would you be able to explain how these filtering techniques improve on the industrial quality filtering of the nearly pure ethanol please?

  7. Hi there, I have recently purchased the Source Turbo (woohoo!) My intention is to extract the oil to be able to use in KangarTech BCC vape cartridges. I wasn’t aware that I needed to “cut” the oil with another material to make it “vape-able”. Could you by chance share any insight for me?

  8. IchibanCrafter, I had to ask you about this previously, and I wish you would add it to the beginning of this article: DON’T DECARB PRIOR TO MAKING SMOKEABLES. Or did I miss something?

    Again, thanks for all the great information you provide to us.

    1. I don’t have that there because it’s not necessarily true. Some people do. For example distillate is 100% decarbed. If you are making carts and want a higher cannabinoid conversion with vaping they might choose to decarb. If you do decarb you are going to increase the cannabinoid potency because your conversion when consuming will be higher, but that comes at the price of terpenes, so it depends on what your goals are and if you value more cannabinoids or more terpenes higher. You now also have the ability to add terpenes individually or profiles to make up for the loss. So, its not as easy as not decarbing for smokables, but its a bit too involved to introduce at the very beginning of showing people what they can make. Thank you for your question and participation!!

      1. Wow. U R a good teacher and explain everything so well. Good stuff, dude! 👍🏼

  9. Hi, Just recently found your site, and have to say I really love it. I’ve been primarily doing FECO extractions for some time, and have found that I don’t mind the chlorophyll. That said, I’m playing with perfecting QWET extraction now, and have continued to grind my flower before decarbing and washing. I used your method of freezing everything (bud, ethanol, jars etc) for 24 hrs, total soak of 10 mins with a quick agitation every couple mins before filtering. With the ground up bud, I definitely got more chlorophyll than one would want if doing a QWET. All that to say, I’m looking to get more clarity on your method of “gently breaking up the flower by hand.” Are you just breaking it into smallish buds? And if so, about how big/small are the chunks? And are you decarbing like that? Thanks in advance for the response!

    1. When making a clean smokable I basically deconstruct the bud like pealing an onion. I take it apart along its natural structure to as small of pieces as possible, try to cause as little cell damage as possible. If I am decarbing mater I’m not quite as carful.

  10. In the article you have on making good shatter from bad trim in the final process, you say use low heat and purge in a vacuum chamber.

    Is the heating pad left on for the entire time in vacuum or is it an initial sequence to soften the material?

  11. How do you specifically make it wax? I’ve done 5 washes and only two are the wax consistency that I like. The only post processing I’ve been doing is putting the oil back in the source in a silicon cup

    1. I also wanted to ask another beginner question. My third was is super brown and idk if its vapable. when you shine a light on it its very clearly brown but its extremely dark and its super gooey and hard to handle so I’m not sure its worth it

      1. Its hard for me to tell. You might want to look into post process purging and read some of the posts very carefully about the process.

    2. Let the oil purge naturally on a silicone mat in a thin layer, whipping once in a while. Do not put it back in the source in a silicone cup, that is not what the machine was made to do and the temp will ramp

      1. Would you be able to send me a link to any beginners articles for post processing? I can’t find any and all the post processing articles I can find are too advanced for me and require equipment that I don’t have. One of my washes is absolutely perfect imo so I know its possible to make what I’m looking for with only the source but I don’t know how and am having trouble finding an article that specifically says how to make wax, all I can find is the line chart the has tincure, wax, pull and snap, and shatter from left to right with no other information. I think the facebook group might have something to help me but it’s a private group and I’ve tried to join twice with no response

      2. Ya I read it I just don’t have a vacuum pump or chamber. There’s a lot of stuff on shatter because everyone wants it but I can’t find anything on wax other than apply heat. I feel like I read somewhere that you can put a lighter to the oil in silicon and that will make it wax but I can’t find the article anywhere and that sounds very wrong. I’m also confused because my first and cleanest washes are the ones that became wax while I can’t get the others to change from taffey and I remember you saying that chlorophyll has lipids and waxes that would make it harder to turn into shatter and (you didn’t say but I am guessing) easier to make into wax.

  12. I just spoke to customer service and they told me to stir it like you said and leave it on the mat longer. I think this is why my oil didn’t become wax because my first two washes were left on the mat overnight while my 3-5 washes were left on the mat for a couple hours.

  13. Hi, waiting on delivery off my new unit, I dont have access to ethanol ,can I use high grade spirits? Thoughts pls as I haven’t a clue

    1. high grade spirits is the same as ethanol. Grain alcohol is ethanol, you just need to make sure it is at least 95% ethanol and the rest is only distilled water.

  14. Is decarbing necessary when the intended use is vaping through a reloadable portable pen? I saw you respond to a comment that “If you do decarb you are going to increase the cannabinoid potency because your conversion when consuming will be higher, but that comes at the price of terpenes, so it depends on what your goals are and if you value more cannabinoids or more terpenes higher.” 

    So if my main goal is medicinal potency, I presume decarbing is recommended no matter what? I’m not quite certain on this one as my understanding is that terpenes also contain medicinal properties!

    1. Everything I could possible answer here is already contained in my “Decarboxylation 101” post. I would refer you to look there and you should have all you need.

      1. had a read. thanks for pointing me in the right direction Ichibancrafter!

        a follow up question – I just did a quick wash w/ my Turbo and reduced the extract into a viscous consistency that is extremely sticky like honey. I was wondering if there was anyway for me to turn this extract into a less sticky consistency without purchasing any additional equipment. Again, I want to consume the extract with my reloadable vap pen and am always on the move – so prefer a productthat can be reloaded into my pen with just my fingers (like shatter for example). I’m hoping to not spend anymore money on a vac chamber if it can be helped as this Turbo was quite the expenditure.

        just thinking out-loud here.. if i chose to decarb the extract at the very end instead of the raw flower at the beginning, whether that would help turn the extract consistency into something less sticky. (This would be after air drying to remove any residual alcohol). Decarbing occurs well above the boiling point of water so I figure this may hit two birds with one stone if I decarbed after the wash and reclaiming alcohol.

        again, appreciate the help!

      2. Decarbing makes the oil stay sticky forever. Not decarbing provides the chance of concentrated stability with air curing

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