Crafting the Concentrate You Want With the Source Turbo by ExtractCraft

The Source Turbo performs the process but you are the Grand Crafter!  The machine performs the same process consistently every time so the final product quality depends entirely on WHAT you put into the Source and WHEN you stop the process.  I am going to share what I have learned about the what and the when to demonstrate how easy it is for you to do as well.  After reading this post you can watch this video of the Source in action, if you’d like: Alcohol Extraction Using the Source Turbo.


Deciding what botanical material to use for your concentrate begins with your image of the desired end product.  Choose the botanical material(s), identify how you plan to use the end product, and decide on the final consistency you desire.  I have experimented with lavender, rose peddles, orange peel, grapefruit peal, lemon, ginger, chilies, spruce, mint, chamomile, rosemary, thyme, aged french oak chips, vanilla, coffee, cloves, and my favorites CANNABIS and CBD!  Many of these have been combined with cannabis or CBD then extracted together to craft fantastic flavors, scents, medicinals, edibles and smokables.  Dried material works best because the water content in fresh material evaporates at a much slower rate and higher temperature than alcohol, leaving much of the water weight remaining in your final product.

Screen Shot 2016-02-14 at 12.10.01 PM


After the chosen materials are gathered we decide how to ‘Wash’ them.  ‘Wash’ is a simple term used to describe mixing the botanical material with the alcohol solvent to transfer the essential oil mater of the botanical into the alcohol solution.  It’s best to use 95% food-grade alcohol because it has very limited water content and is perfectly acceptable to ingest.  Ethanol is an aggressive solvent and how much plant material is extracted by it will be determined by the duration of exposure, temperature of the alcohol and material, and the intensity of agitation during the wash.  Quite simply, longer, warmer, and stronger agitation leads to more plant material being extracted.  For example, for the oak chips the best result was letting them soak over night at room temperature with periodic vigorous agitation whereas rosemary can’t be soaked very long because of the excessive wax that will be collected.   Experimenting with different materials for different uses is a great discovery adventure, so don’t be afraid to make a mistake because they will all work out nicely.

CANNABIS wash takes some special attention to get the result you want.  To get something smooth, fragrant, and nicely smokable, a quick wash is necessary to restrict the chlorophyll and wax residue from leaking into the solution.  On the other hand, to make something like RSO and Pheonix Tears a much longer soak with more agitation is necessary.

Screen Shot 2016-02-14 at 12.29.49 PM

How much alcohol should be used to effectively extract essential oils?  I haven’t found a steadfast measuring rule by weight, but what’s worked best for me is adding enough alcohol to just cover the botanical material.  Using too much alcohol won’t hurt anything, it will just require more time to evaporate the extra alcohol.

At this point most of the work is done.  All that’s left is to strain the alcohol solution from the solid material into the metal cup used by the Source.  The solid plant material does not go in the machine.  Metal strainers, silk screens, unbleached coffee filters, and Buchner funnels all work well to different degrees of filtering efficiency.  How throughly the solution is strained dictates how much particle residue will remain in the final product.  For cooking edibles and oral meds some plant material is fine depending on your preference.  For smoking in vape pens or doing dabs thorough and repeated filtering is required and makes the finest product.

Screen Shot 2016-02-14 at 12.42.05 PM

After straining the alcohol solution into the cup, inserting the cup into the Source, and starting the machine, all that’s left to do is wait for the essential oil in the cup to reach the consistency you desire.  The final consistency can be a tincture, cannabis oil, wax or all the way to a concentrated hard resin.  Simply turn the machine off and remove your creation.

Screen Shot 2016-02-14 at 12.57.19 PM

Toward the end of the process things begin to change quickly so it’s important to carefully monitor the progress and stop at the desired consistency.  The good news is that if the material overcooks it can be reconstituted by simply adding a small amount alcohol, and using the machine to condense the alcohol out again.

You are going to love experimenting with the process and really enjoy your crafting creations!

Please leave questions and comments, I love talking about this stuff.  You can also email me at   Thanks for checking me out!

48 thoughts on “Crafting the Concentrate You Want With the Source Turbo by ExtractCraft

  1. I have one and how long would u cook it to make the shatter I done it once and cant do it again lol and on what temp

    1. Hi Brandy! Getting the shatter consistency is the hardest thing to achieve in making the concentrates. To begin with you have to make sure you have a really clean wash, meaning you want pretty much no green (or as little as possible) in your alcohol solution. The more green the more waxes and chlorophyll present which will prevent the crystallization required for shatter. To achieve this make sure to freeze the alcohol and cannabis before washing then wash for only 1-3 minutes keeping temp as low as possible (see the QWET on for full explanation). Secondly, as you asked, how long do you ‘cook’ it? It needs to go until any bubbling is completely finished and it is quite thick. This poses one problem, as you probably noticed when the concentrate gets to the heavy concentrate consistency it becomes more difficult to scrape from the aluminum cup. So the trick here is to stop the process one time when the concentrate is a thick oil but still viscus enough to cleanly remove from the aluminum cup and transfer to a silicone cup. I use a food-grade small cupcake silicone that fits easily into the aluminum cup. I use the small cupcake cup because it allows good surface area and easy removal. So we have taken the concentrate out of the aluminum cup at a thick oil consistency, placed the thick oil in the silicon cup, placed the silicon cup inside the aluminum cup and put back inside the Source (good idea to wipe/clean the aluminum cup before putting the silicone cup inside it so it doesn’t stick). Lastly, start the Source and let it ‘cook’ until the bubbles completely stop, remove from the Source, and let set and cool for up to 24hr. It will smoke the same if you use right away but it will take a little while to harden.

      One word of caution, the longer you cook it more heat is being exposed for a longer time so if it is overdone too much you will lose more terpenes. It’s a little bit of a balancing act but not something you have to stress out about too much.

      I hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions. Please let me know how it ends up for you!

    1. A tincture is the original form of medication that is essentially a medicated alcohol solution. One of the most famous cannabis tinctures is the Green Dragon which you can find lots of information about around the web. When processing your extraction it begins as a very weak tincture and as the alcohol evaporates it becomes a more potent tincture, more potent, oil, sap, wax, and finally a shatter or hard resin. They all have the same cannabis extract in them but with varying degrees concentration.

  2. Hello! I want to make oil to vape!!! What do you recommend? Temperature of the oil in the machine and then what? Mix it with vg and PG? Or can you recommend something else??? Thank you in advance 😉

  3. I am still a bit confused on the matter of decarbing prior to extraction. Using the Source for distillation, does the cannabis need to be decarbed prior to wash if it is intended to be used without heating of the final product? For example RSO?

    1. When using the Source you will need to decarb either the cannabis prior to extraction, or the oil after the extraction. The Source works at very low temperatures, close to 100F so little to no decarb will occur while making oil in the Source. This is much different to other methods, where the temperatures are higher like in a rice cooker and such. The Source is designed to cause as little damage as possible to the contents of a botanical extraction and give people absolute control of how the extraction is performed. If you want activated THC for an RSO extraction you decarb before or after. If you want THC-A for your child’s anti-convulsive meds then you don’t decarb and you don’t have to worry about the machine converting the THC-A to THC either.

    1. A little bit of clove in your wash makes for an old school flavor. The cloves are strong so you have to take it easy on them. I use terpenes for the most part. You can use ecig flavorings as well if you are looking for deep flavors. If you plan on making them yourself, just make sure you do the research to make sure whatever concentrate you are making is ok to vaporize and inhale.

      1. at which point would one use the ecig flavors? i am still researching the terpenes and how to use them. i am looking ideally for a vape with no vgpg

      2. i am just now researching this.. i ordered my machine and it gets here next week ..this was the only thread i have seen. I will look around


    Thank you so much for these articles, which are a true labor of love!! You’ve made it very clear that The Source is a versatile machine and that it will make it much easier for me to really fine tune my final products.

    I’d like to know what you think of this idea: for the quick wash, I would use a little more alcohol in a larger container to allow all the good stuff to be infused perhaps more easily? If there’s more space and alcohol to permeate all the nooks and crannies? I understand that it will take longer to evaporate the alcohol, but this seems inconsequential if the infusion takes place a little more efficiently.

    I love making tincture and I want to improve my techniques! ;-}

    Stay blissful,

    1. Thank you for the kind words. The amount of alcohol can be detrimental to yields if there is insufficient volume for sure. The ethanol can actually hold quite a bit in the solution, like 10:1 or more. However, the problem is declining pick up efficiency as pickup progresses especially when you are using very cold temperatures. An important thing is to agitate the alcohol a bit periodically to move fresh alcohol in and out of the nooks and crannies and avoid a boundary layer of ethanol that may be less efficient as it picks up.

  5. I’m having good luck with a 10 Min 1st wash for vape pens and a 15 minute second wash for edibles. As long as you don’t cut the plant, therefore compromising the cell wall, you’ll have a clean wash. These short washes are entirely too short. If your worried about waxes just winterize for 24 hours. It takes a long long long wash to get chlorophyll.

  6. How about decarbbing before the Qwet process? Ok to do? Does the length of time on the wash for decarb flower is the same as regular flower?

    Got a Source1 Turbo and getting ready for my first start to finish run. I had some everclear wash solution that was based on the MBM way of making tincture. Which was very green looking extract with everclear still there. Tincture tasted like alcohol with some plant taste. Ran it through the source one and at about two hours and 15 mins seeing the alcohol go down and leave the good stuff behind. But at that 2 hour 15 min or so mark the glass top and sides of the Source1 looked like the tincture exploded as the walls and glass top of the Source1 was covered in the brown liquid. I am guessing that is the alcohol with all the green in it. Ever seen something like that or is this normal for the Source1 if you are using “dirty” qwet liquids in the Source1? Thanks. Good site and excited to make some stuff.

    1. Hi, thank you for your questions. Decarbing before the wash or after the extraction with the oil are both good approaches.

      I have seen what you are describing quite often and its unfortunate. You experienced bumping because you included a ton of unnecessary plant matter in the tincture. This is what you need to understand, the MB is a soy milk maker by design and marketed as cannabis machine. There is absolutely no reason to chop up all the cannabis and pulverize it then soak in alcohol. It is not making a quality tincture its simply the same as putting alcohol and plant material in a blender which makes no sense, right? For marketing purposes they tell people that is a good way to make a tincture, but if you think about the process and the interaction between botanical material and ethanol you will see its completely wrong. The ethanol on its own is aggressive enough on its own to do the extraction. What happened is all the pulverized plant material that come out of the MB and into the Source created a mud instead of a tincture. That mud is too thick to allow the heat to bubble and escape from the bottom of the cup, so the pressure builds until it has enough energy to bust through and it ‘bumps’ and you experience a somewhat violent splatter. So, what I would suggest is when making extractions follow the steps I have in my blog posts or follow the user manual to achieve the best results and I think you will have a much more pleasant experience.

      1. Thanks for the reply and confirmation. Any suggestions on how long to QWET for with decarb flower? I will be using the freezer method with no dry ice. Material currently is decarbbed, brown, and A little brittle. Thanks in advance for your help.

      2. Well, if you are decarbing I am assuming you are making something to take orally? Freezing is only really required to make very clean oil as apposed to something that would be more full plant extract (FECO) in nature. The consideration for the time in QWET soak and freezing or not freezing is essentially juggling cleanliness against efficiency. If you want a very clean extract you have to freeze the material and use a soak time shorter than the duration that would pick up green. When working with frozen material the agressivness of the ethanol is slowed so the soak can be from 10 minutes to 1-hour depending on the temperature and the condition of the starting material. Getting clean oil, and avoiding the green, implicitly means the efficiency of pickup isn’t maximized and you are leaving something behind. You can pick up what is left behind with a second wash. On the other hand, if you are making just to use in cooking or edibles and are ok with a little green you don’t need to freeze and can do at room temperature for a shorter soak like 5-10 minutes and pick up most of what the material has to offer. The ethanol is very aggressive at room temperature so you will get good efficiency with that efficiency will come the green color as well. So, it might take some experimenting to see what works best for you but you will figure it out very quickly. The good thing is you will never waste the material because you cant really ruin it, at worst its just not exactly what you wanted and you learn how to do it better next time.

  7. One more quick question, any suggested ratio to flower material to everclear? I got 10g decarb flower for a test run sitting in the freezer for 12 hours and everclear in the freezer for 48 hours. Thanks/

    1. Some use a 10:1 ratio, I just eyeball it and make sure the vegetation is well covered and covered with some extra

  8. if the first wash takes out 75 % of product ( thc or cbd ) will a 2nd wash take out another % thats worth doing or chuck it

    1. That totally depends on your budget and view on effort/benefit. A longer second wash for edibles is usually worth doing in most peoples opinions I hear.

  9. Hi Ichiban, I’m wondering what other options I have for filtering my quick wash besides the buchner filter: What size of micron filtration will work to purify the wash?

    I use the silk micron bags to wash the buds in ethanol; I have 90 and 120 micron sizes, but I’m realizing that I definitely need further filtration if I want to make a vapeable oil–as you have clearly pointed out.

    Will 20-25 micron filters do the job?


    1. 20-25 micron can do ok. I use medium (12 micron) and slow (3 micron) filter paper in my Büchner. For a quality smokable you really need the right filtering tools.

      1. Ichiban, I’ll get the buchner filter if I have to, but is there some website that can teach me exactly how to use it? I’m just not getting it.

  10. Can anyone please tell me how much I should spend on a buchner funnel? I see the price range is vast and I am not sure what to buy to filter my extract properly.

    1. The Büchner funnel is around $12-20, the vacuum assist flask about the same. The rubber stopper a few dollars, and filter paper around $20? You can find sets on Amazon. If you go th the Extractcraft Facebook user group “Extractcraft User Group” and use the search function you can see lots of past discussions about buying Büchner funnel setups with very good information to help

  11. I made my first real genuine SAP using the buchner filter: it vapes like a dream!!! I’m SO GLAD I got the buchner filter.

    I learned it all reading your blog, Ichiban. So thanks for sharing!!!

  12. Alltatup is why I have the source….You, Ichiban is why I’m getting some great results. This information is genius

    now I have got to learn what to do with it all

    1. Those are all forms of oil, you can add a carrier oil to put in more liquid form if that’s more useful for you

  13. Hi! Question, if we stop the process at the “tincture” point, would the alcohol be gone? We want to make our own CBD oils, but want to make sure they are alcohol free. If we go past the tincture point do we then just add the waxy residue to MCT to make tinctures? Does it dissolve into the MCT without further heating? Don’t want to burn away the good stuff…but don’t want any alcohol either. Thanks!

Leave a Reply